Smokin'
Start: 12th October 2009
Finish: 22nd October 2009
Needles: 6 mm / 80 cm Addi Turbos
Yarn:
Schachenmayr Nomotta Extra Tweed; 95% wool, 5% viscose; colourway #0099
(Black); yarn held double; used up the totall of 18 balls (actually
about 17 balls weight-wise).
Notions: 5 crescent horn buttons
Pattern: "Smokin'" by Jared Flood, aka Brooklyn Tweed; from the book "Son of Stitch 'n Bitch"
Size knitted: S
Modifications:
Pockets are done by set-in pocket linings instead of just sewing the
linings on to the outside of the jacket. I also replaced the leather
cased buttons for crescent horn buttons instead.
Lawdy, it's been almost a month since I last blogged. Sorry about that,
I just didn't feel the Muse to do so lately. Apart from that, I have
been busy applying for jobs, etc. No luck so far, but who knows what
might be lurking around the corner, eh? ;-) I'm keeping myself
optimistic about it all.
Anyhow, I have been meaning to knit
myself more cardigans and jackets...and I must say that this is by far
my favourite. Smokin' has caught my eyes ever since the pattern had
become available. It just looks so...old-worldy gentleman-like. The
problem was that I just couldn't find the yarn to knit it up with. I
went out and bought single balls of different yarns to knit up gauge
swatch and just never was satisfied with the results. I either get
gauge with the fabric being too airy or just not get gauge at all.
Then
it just dawned on me that I had 20 balls of these discontinued Extra
Tweed in my stash...and that it might just work if I held the yarn
double. And voilĂ ! It did!
With the big gauge, thick needles,
the project was a breeze. I only changed how the pocket was done and
replaced the leather-cased buttons for crescent horn buttons. As for
the pockets, I have adopted the method I learned from knitting the
pockets for "George".
This is how I did the pocket (keep in mind, the measurements are for
the size I knitted, i.e. S): The pocket linings were knitted before I
started the project by CO 22 sts and knit in stockinette stitch until
the lining reaches 6", leave the stitches live on waste-yarn.
When
the body reaches 4 1/4" after garter stitch border, start knitting the
22 stitches garter stitch for the top part of the pockets 6 stitches in
from the left and right edges of the fronts. Once the whole piece
measures 7" from CO edge (i.e. 1" garter stitche and 6" of the
stockinette stitch or 4 1/4" of stockinette and 1 3/4" of 22 sts garter
pocket tops), place the 22 garter stitches from the fronts on waste
yarn, then join and pick up and knit the 22 stitches from the linings.
Proceed with the rest of the jacket according to the pattern.
Once the jacket is done, catch and sew-down the pocket linings.
I love everything about this jacket...apart from knitting the button-band and shawl-collar. It was quite an experience.
I
wonder whether it would have been easier to knit up the button bands
togehter while knitting up with the body. I feel that picking up and
knitting the button band separately and then sew it down to the body is
pretty tedious...The only thing I really didn't like about the
construction is the fact that the button band and collar are picked up
and knitted separately from the body and then sew-down to the
body...which introduced all kinds of bad knitting mojo and resulting in my
having to sew down, undo, re-sew, undo, frog, re-knitted, re-sew for
the total of four times. :-/ Will try to modify this kind of thing in
the future to integrate the button band and collar in the knitting
process instead of doing them separately.
The result of all this is the fact that the shawl-collar doesn't sit like it should
really sit. But I wasn't about to re-do all that for the fifth time and
gave myself the satisfaction of having the freedom to leave it so. :-p
Another
oopsy that I did was the buttonhole. The very bottom buttonhole was
done at the very beginning whilst the others are done at the end when
you knit up the button band. I totally forgot about this and
mis-calculated the spaces for the buttonholes. I pretty much
disregarded the very bottom buttonhole. This resulted in the space
between the very bottom buttonhole and the next one up being further
apart than the spaces between the other buttonholes, and so the
button-band at the bottom would pucker when I button up all the
buttons. I wasn't about to frog the whole button-band and collar
bonanza and went through it all again. So, I just left it as it was.
Besides, I just leave the very bottom button un-buttoned every time I
wear the jacket. :-)
Otherwise, I love this jacket and have
been wearing it very often, since it is very versatile for this
ever-changing Autumn weather we're having here in Munich.
Well, then, wishing a great rest-of-the-week to you all!



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